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Electronics Repair

Electronics Repair,
back online today after yet another electronics issue with my laptops 12v power supply. This is not a how to do electronics repairs but is a warning that you need to have some supplies on hand as well as in an extended kit for long term Self Reliance sustainability.

My list of tools;
box cutter / utility knife
side cutters
pliers needle nose
pliers regular blunt end
wire strippers/cutter
magnifying glasses x3 power
small screwdriver set
black utility/electrical tape
flux
solder with flux built in
Soldering Iron – Need to buy one!!!
(I have a soldering Gun, not as useful and takes a lot more power)
flat large surface to work on, ymmv there

Last month the 12v power cord broke near the end that goes into the computer. This is a multi power, multi end power supply so the ends pop off too easy. I have taped on the end permanently. The cord broke due to the fact that the power supply on this laptop is on the left side, my main vehicle 12v power supply is on the right in the dash. This makes the cord always bend to the right in order to be plugged in. IMG_20131016_154524b

The cord from the power pack to the laptop is a coaxial type of power cord with the negative wires around the inside positive wires. This finding this out took a few attempts at cutting, moving wires, pealing the inside positive wire without hurting the outside wires. x3 power close up glasses were used instead of a magnifying glass so that both hands were free to be in play.

IMG_20131016_154924b

First I joined the inside positive wires, soldering them together though had to do this a few times. The best I found was to add extra flux even though the solder I had on had has flux built in, maybe it had to due with the size of the wire and not wanting to get it too hot as the end was so close.

IMG_20131016_155557b

Next wrapped the wire up in tape, black electrical tape, put an extra layer or two to be sure!

Next did the same with the outside negative wires, same thing extra flux worked better. Again, overwrapped with the electrical tape, just to make sure!

Then covered both wires together, made sure the electrical tape was affixed to the wires a good two inches up from the cut and repair, did I mention that I wanted to be sure!

Voila, plugged the 12v into a socket to see if the wire repair or the power pack would heat up, left it on with no laptop connected for about 30 minutes. With some trepidation, I unplugged the 12v socket, attached the laptop, then plugged it back in. So far so good, whewww… Then turned the laptop on, kept checking for heat and smoke, ready to unplug at the first sign of either!

Now, two days ago, bam the 12v plug end, melted, melted so tight that it crushed the inside fuse or the fuse broke, causing the outside casing to melt. Does not matter either way, there was trouble. I unplugged the 12v power pack took a quick look and left it for the morning.
Note: do not get angry and throw the cord to the phone against the wall! In the morning you now have another soldering job!!
Newest fix; luckily I had an extra end for the power pack to the 12v socket kicking around. After taking the somewhat melted male socket apart, there was no way to fix was was left. Looking at the never used 12v cord, making a quick cut with the side cutters close but not against the adapter where it goes into the 12v power pack, I was committed. Thinking in advance, cutting close to the end connector now has the original cord slightly less than double the length, much better!

IMG_20131208_145042b

Snipping close but not against the melted male socket (might still have some usable parts there) I laid out the wires to be stripped with the wire strippers/cutter.

Next which is good to know, this side the wires are normal cord style, positive and negative side by side, so much less stress and hassle! (relatively speaking of course)
Wires stripped back, positive first, soldered and fluxed together, wrapped excessively with black electrical tape.
Next negative wires done the same, overwrapped paying attention that there were now positive wires peeking through or mixed in with the negative wires!
All, overwrapped, up and down about 3 inches either side of the break. Overwrapped, making sure, I did mention this is my laptop cable right!

Other projects;
mouse chewed threw cables from solar panels to wire clips,
broken 12v cables that were attached to the 12v starting battery to a 4oo watt inverter
older emergency 12v battery starting wires, old ends taken off, wired brushed up, reconnected to newly exposed wire and soldered on for better connectivity and power transfer.

So, why is this important post SHTF;
no laptop for info
no solar panels
more mice to chew things
soldering iron draws less power
Soldering gun, has a nice light, ya but draws a lot more power
– also you need to hold that little trigger the whole time and your finger goes to sleep!
Get used to doing things outside of your comfort zone now!

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Filed under Blog post, Equipment, Survival Prepping

Alcohol Stoves Improved L-Can Stove

(similar to Cat Can Stove)

OK Lcan or L-can stands for Liver Can Stove, yuk you say, no cat, and well I like liver and it comes in convenient backpacking sizes to boot!

So, take it plus another re-purposed Canned Salmon and you have a complete cooking system.
Make it using a Drill or a rock and a nail, although the drill is by far easier, so do it in advance.

The following are self-explanatory pictures, hopefully they will help you out.
Now, in the next couple of days, I will post my little lightweight, ultra light weight, re-cycled and re-purposed combo cook set! You just won’t believe your eyes, so I will also create a YouTube video of them in action.

on with the show;

showing how to make the Liver Can Stove (similar to Cat Can Stove)

showing how to make the Liver Can Stove (similar to Cat Can Stove)

showing Liver Can Stove along with penny stove, sitting on recycled can pot holder (similar to Cat Can Stove)

showing Liver Can Stove along with penny stove, sitting on recycled can pot holder (similar to Cat Can Stove)

NOTE: the can on the top left is slightly larger than the can on the right. This is what you want, the slightly larger can on the left allows just a tiny bit more air flow and the fuel burning process is speeded up as well as hotter with the extra height. I believe the can on the left is a Salmon Can and the one on the right is a Tuna Can!
Inside is a Penny Stove, look to internet for hundreds of designs for them. My adaptation is the underside. The normal can is bent upwards for strength when it is used as a pop can, you do not need it for a wee tiny stove. My making the bottom go the other way, you are now able to get more fuel in the penny stove, for longer burn times.

showing Liver Can Stove along with two other earlier versions, sitting on recycled can pot holder (similar to Cat Can Stove)

showing Liver Can Stove along with two other earlier versions, sitting on recycled can pot holder (similar to Cat Can Stove)

Acohol Stoves 062bOk, so the last one is the hardest for some to figure out!
Here it goes, the pot holder on the left is an Esbit stove stand. Take out the alcohol fuel tabs that come with it, put them in a ziplock bag, toss into your fuel starter/fire starter bag, which is part of your Go or Bug Out Bag system.

On the right is one of my Liver Can Stoves inside a Salmon Can Stove holder/pot stand. The Tin Foil, which I carry for a number of reasons and can be re-used if you get some good heavy weight stuff, not the dollar store stuff as it is tissue paper thin.

FUEL

I use 99.9% pure Methyl Hydrate found at Home Depot, Rona, Canadian Tire or Home Hardware. It comes in a 1 gallon container for about $10-$12 dollars. Pour the fuel into a smaller 1 pint or 8 oz fuel bottle and you have a lightweight and more ergonomic fuelling system.

Fondue fuel does not burn hot enough,
Alcohol normally comes in only 75% strength (Methyl is pure Alcohol as well, or for the US peeps, Denatured Alcohol)

These stoves are quick, odourless, efficient as well as being able to be used under a pile of wet wood to get it going. So light up my life and light up my fire 🙂

Hope this helps you out

+ + Legal warning, do not do this, consult a specialist, not responsible, this is what I did, if you burn down or die, not my problems!

* * * CAUTION HOT !
use leather gloves or hotdog tongs to remove the can from the top
 
Note: this should be vented outside as it creates more smoky residue in the air as well as you should have a supply of fresh air for it as well, or you might not wake up!
 
Oxygen Thief – carbon monoxide warning – use a detector – fresh air – venting system as well
your warned, use at your own risk!! yadda yadda yadda legal speak, use your common sense  be safe

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Filed under Blog post, Equipment, Food, Improvised Stoves Heaters, Survival Prepping